Embracing the Essence of Low Intervention Winemaking

I have been spending a lot of time in the vineyard lately working on preparing the vines for pruning, which will take place in the later part of March. As I work in the early mornings or taking in the last of the sunlight in the late afternoon, I am reminded of the profound connection between the land, the grape, and the wine we craft. Today, I find myself reflecting on the distinct advantages of low intervention winemaking—a philosophy that shapes every aspect of my approach to viticulture and winemaking. As I stand amongst the vines in our organically farmed vineyard, I feel compelled to share the inherent benefits of our practices, contrasting them with the conventions of the mainstream wine industry as, unfortunately, there are more and more of these conventional wineries panning off their wines as “natural” these days.

Farming Practices: Nurturing the Land with Care

Our commitment to low intervention winemaking begins in the vineyard, where we embrace organic farming practices. Instead of relying on synthetic chemicals to control pests and diseases, we use cover crop to cultivate a harmonious ecosystem where biodiversity flourishes. Cover crops nourish the soil, beneficial insects patrol the vines, and compost enriches the earth—all contributing to the vitality of our vineyard. Unlike conventional vineyards, where chemical inputs can degrade soil health and harm the environment, our approach fosters a sustainable relationship with the land, reducing our carbon footprint, while ensuring soil health and vibrancy for generations to come.

Native Yeast Fermentation: Honoring the Essence of Terroir

In our cellar, I uphold the ancient tradition of native yeast fermentation—a process that encapsulates the true essence of terroir (or the complete environment in which a wine in produced). Rather than inoculating our grape must with commercial yeast strains, we allow fermentation to occur spontaneously, guided by the indigenous microflora that inhabit our vineyards and the vineyards we source from. This approach imbues our wines with a sense of place, capturing the unique character and expression of our vineyard and its surroundings (there’s a reason why San Francisco has great sourdough!). In contrast, conventionally made wines often rely on selected yeast strains, sacrificing the diversity, complexity, and sense of terroir that native fermentation affords. Our wines, steeped in the spirit of the land, resonate with authenticity and depth, inviting the drinker on a journey of discovery.

Neutral Oak Aging: Allowing the Grape to Shine

As our wines mature in the cellar, we eschew the use of new oak barrels in favor of neutral vessels that impart minimal to no flavor profile whatsoever. By aging our wines in neutral oak or alternative vessels such as stainless-steel tanks or barrels, we preserve the purity and integrity of the grape, allowing its inherent qualities to shine through. In doing so, we honor the natural expression of the fruit, avoiding the masking effect of new oak that can dominate the palate. While conventional winemakers may rely on new oak to impart richness in their wines, I believe in the intrinsic beauty of simplicity—a philosophy that underscores every aspect of my winemaking. I strive to make pure, honest, and expressive wines, the way the universe intended.

No Fining or Filtration: Preserving the Essence of the Wine

In my quest for purity and authenticity, I forgo the use of fining agents and filtration techniques that strip the wine of its natural character. Instead, I allow our wines to clarify naturally through settling and racking, preserving their innate complexity and texture. Unlike conventionally made wines, which may undergo rigorous filtration to achieve a crystal-clear appearance (with the use of egg whites, volcanic ash and clay, etc.), our wines retain their natural verve and vitality, preserving the essence of the grape varietals and the land from which they came.

I believe the advantages of low intervention winemaking are manifold, encompassing every aspect of the winemaking process. From the vineyard to the cellar, my natural approach aims at honoring the inherent beauty and preservation of nature, allowing the grape to express itself fully and authentically. As I work in our vineyard bathed in the soft light of dusk, I am filled with a profound sense of gratitude for the opportunity to craft wines that embody the essence of this special place we call home.

Sacramento to South Lake Tahoe Our favorite stops along the way!

A delicious and historical journey from Sacramento South Lake Tahoe!

1. Poor Red's Bar-B-Q (El Dorado): Start your journey at legendary Poor Red's Bar-B-Q, known for its tasty barbecue and divey old school atmosphere. Chuck your diet out the window and splurge on the mouthwatering ribs, savory pulled pork, and signature cocktails.

2. Timmy's Brown Bag (Placerville): Craving a quick bite? Head to Placerville and grab a unique & belly busting sandwich at Timmy's Brown Bag, a local favorite for quirky, fancy sandwiches.

3. Cuppa Coffee (Placerville): Need a caffeine boost? Stop by and be greeted by Mieero at local favorite, Cuppa Coffee. They’ve got everything from pour over coffee, tea and specialty espresso drinks. Sip and chat with locals while taking in the cozy ambiance of this charming cafe.

4. Flourless Bakery (Placerville): New in town, Flourless Bakery is here to satisfy your sweet tooth. They specialize in delectable gluten-free treats and pastries. Their mouthwatering desserts are made with high-quality ingredients and innovative flavors. Proudly LGBTQ owned and operated.

5. Historic Placerville Public House (Placerville): Travel back in time at the historic (and haunted) Placerville Public House. Located near the legendary Hangman's Tree from Gold Rush times. Enjoy a craft beer or artisanal cocktail while learning about the town's colorful past.

6. Gold Bug Mine (Placerville): Catch “Gold Fever’ and take a tour at Gold Bug Mine, a historic gold mine just a few minutes north of Placerville. Take a guided tour of the mine to learn about the region's rich mining history. Gem panning available and easy hiking trails for the kiddos.

7. Mushroom Hunting (Consumnes River): Take a detour along the Consumnes River and explore the lush wilderness in search of wild mushrooms. Keep your eyes peeled for various mushroom species, including chanterelles, morels, and porcinis. Forage for healing herbs and miner’s lettuce as well.

8. Gold Dust Vineyard (Fair Play): Make a stop at Gold Dust Vineyard, the area’s only natural winery and cider producer in the Fair Play AVA. This is home of Conduit - divergent vine and Tag + Jug Cider Co. Come by for a winemaker led tasting of their exceptional wines and artisanal ciders. Enjoy the breathtaking beauty of the vineyard while soaking in the vibes of the Sierra Foothills. Don’t want to leave? They also offer camping and glamping on site!

9. Sierra Foothills Scenic Drive: Continue your journey with an amazingly scenic drive the back way to South Lake Tahoe along historic Carson Pass /I-88 (weather permitting). Appreciate the historic trail and natural beauty of the region as you make your way towards South Lake Tahoe.

10. South Lake Tahoe: Arrive in South Lake Tahoe, your ultimate winter destination. Whether you're hitting the slopes, exploring the stunning lake, or simply unwinding in a cozy cabin, there's plenty to see and do in this winter wonderland.

Embark on this unforgettable journey from El Dorado to South Lake Tahoe, filled with delicious food, fascinating history, and breathtaking scenery!

What the Heck is Orange Wine?

This style of wine that has exploded in popularity around the globe is actually a throw back to ancient wine making techniques used in Georgia as long ago as the 6th millennium B.C., but what exactly is orange wine?

In short, “orange wines” are white wines made like a red wine.  All orange wines are all made using white wine grapes that are fermented in open-air containers while on the skins.  Traditionally, white wines are made by pressing off the sweet juice from the grape skin on the day the grapes are harvested, leaving the grape juice to ferment on its own in barrels or tanks.  Red wines on the other hand, are made by leaving the whole berry (or whole cluster, including the stem) in the fermentation bins. This process allows the red wines to develop their unique colors, pick up added depth and complexity, and in the case of thicker-skinned grapes (like Syrah, Tempranillo, etc.), pick up tannin structure, which create that puckering dryness in the mouth as you swallow these types of wines.  Similarly, when this skin-contact process is applied to white wine grapes, the resulting wine will have a deeper, orange-like color, as well as more weightiness, depth of character, and tannin structure that one normally associates exclusively with red wines.  Because of this, drinking an orange wine is a completely different experience than drinking either a white or red wine, so open-mindedness is highly encouraged.

In 2022, we made our orange wine with Chenin Blanc grapes sourced from Clarksburg, just south of Sacramento, from vines planted along the sandy soils of the Sacramento River.  The day the grapes were picked, I destemmed the Chenin Blanc into large, open-air fermentation bins.  The grapes underwent a 13-day ferment with native yeasts before the juice was finally pressed off into old French Oak barrels, where the wine aged for 14 months before being bottled without fining or filtration. 

In the glass, this wine introduces itself with aromas of peach tea, chamomile, and cardamom.  As you get into the wine, you’ll notice stone fruits such as white nectarine, tropical mango and passion fruit, as well as slight honeyed characteristics, framed in a wine that is significantly weightier compared to our Chenin Blanc made as a traditional white wine. The Skinz finishes off with a fair amount of tannin structure complimented by high, zippy acidity that one would expect from Chenin Blanc.

Rollin’ on Skinz has bolder flavors than a white wine, so don’t be shy in pairing this wine with other bold flavors.  We especially enjoy the Skinz with Indian and Middle Eastern cuisine as well as Korean dishes featuring kimchi.  Given the wine’s complexity and structure, orange wines like this also make excellent pairings with cheese and charcuterie plates and a variety of proteins from fatty white fish to red meat.

The label art (if you can call it that) was drawn by Aaron and inspired by one of his favorite movies, The Big Lebowski. The label depicts Aaron’s profile licking a bowling ball-like white wine grape as it changes color from yellow to orange.

We hope you try and enjoy our 2022 Clarksburg “Rollin’ on Skinz.”

The Chenin Abides…

Diving Into the 2023 Fall Wine Releases

2022 divergent vine “A Touch of Gray Rock”  - El Dorado Co. Red Wine

A wine as vibrant and eclectic as the touring band from San Francisco, this red wine blend plays on the duality of bright red notes of strawberry and roses delivered by the Sangiovese and bright purple notes of bramble fruit, dark cherry and Santa Rosa plumb from the Zinfandel.  We added just a touch of our Gold Dust Vineyard Primitivo to bring depth and tannin structure, creating an awe-inspiring blend of contrasting characteristics that form a harmonious and composed wine. 

Perfect enjoyed as a solo act, but also sings with a variety of foods from pizza and pasta to BBQ.

46% Sangiovese

46% Zinfandel

8% Estate Primitivo

All grapes fermented 25% whole cluster, 75% destemmed

9 months of aging in old French Oak barrels

213 cases produced

2022 divergent vine “Gold Dust Vineyard” Estate Primitivo

Primitivo is an Italian clone of Zinfandel, but while the two grapes are genetically identical, the subsequent wines they produce drink very different in the glass.  While California Zinfandel tends to be juicy, sometimes macerated and jammy fruit, medium acidity and no tannin, the smaller clustered and (more importantly) smaller berried Primitivo presents a layered and textured complexity that is often lacking in Zinfandel.

Primitivo thrives in the rocky, shallow soils of the Gold Dust Vineyard, and yield a wine with rustic aromas of wet stone, earth and dark chocolate.  Don’t be fooled though as this wine is bursting with flavors of boysenberry, blackberry, and raspberry on the mid-palate, which finish off in a highly structured and food-friendly wine.  I love this wine because it presents itself in many different ways during the tasting experience, which keep me coming back

Pair with any variety of Italian dishes, but my personal favorite pairing is with a juicy, medium rare hamburger.

100% Estate Primitivo

Fermented 25% whole cluster, 75% destemmed

10 months of aging in old French Oak barrels

97 cases produced

2022 Conduit “Gold Dust Vineyard” Estate Syrah

Our estate Syrah needed a little more hang time on the vine in 2022, so we didn’t co-ferment our Syrah with Viognier for the first time since we moved to the property. While I love the Côte Rôtie style co-ferment, the season gave us an opportunity to showcase the power and finesse of Syrah we grow in the granitic soils of our ridgeline.  The grapes were fermented 80% whole cluster, 20% destemmed for 28 days before the juice was pressed into old French Oak barrels and aged for 12 months.

In contrast to our Syrah-Viognier co-ferment, this lighter Syrah opens with inviting savory notes of leather, green peppercorn and black olive, which lead into flavors of black currant, Açaí, and mountain bramble fruit, seamlessly finishing with medium-plus tannin and bright acidity.  Personally, I love drinking Syrah on its own and exploring the rich complexity of the grape, but it also makes a tremendous pairing with a variety of meats and steak and would be perfect pairing with a little Holiday Prime Rib or roasted lamb.

100% Estate Syrah

140 cases produced

Fall 2023 Wine Club Shipment

3 BOTTLE SHIPMENT

2022 divergent vine “A Touch of Gray Rock” – El Dorado Co. Red Wine

2022 divergent vine “Gold Dust Vineyard” Estate Primitivo

2022 Conduit “Gold Dust Vineyard” Estate Syrah

6 BOTTLE SHIPMENT

(The three wines above plus…)

2022 divergent vine Clarksburg “Rollin’ on Skinz” – skin contact Chenin Blanc

2022 Fair Play Grenache

2020 “Gold Dust Vineyard” Estate Tempranillo

12 BOTTLE SHIPMENT

The six wines above, plus this fun selection of vertical year and library wines, exclusively available in the 12 x 2 shipment

2014 Sonoma County Cabernet Franc – Merlot Red Blend (Deep Cut library selection)

2021 divergent vine “Gold Dust Vineyard” Estate Syrah – Viognier co-ferment

2021 divergent vine “Gold Dust Vineyard” Estate Primitivo

2022 Conduit Fair Play Rosé of Grenache

2019 diveregnt vine Amador County “Shake Ridge Ranch” Zinfandel

2023 Fall Release Party

2023 Conduit/divergent vine Fall Release Party Menu

You’re invited to join us on Saturday, November 4th from 11AM - 4 PM for a Fall Wine release tasting experience unlike any other we’ve ever done! Com try the new wines, paired with their previous year counterparts as well as a few deep cut wines from our library. There will be music, fondue and lots of fun. Amy and I look forward to seeing you at the Gold Dust Vineyard very soon!

Book your Fall Release Tasting Experience here

Book your Campsite, Glamping, or RV site here

New Releases

2022 divergent vine El Dorado County “A Touch of Gray Rock” El Dorado County Blend (NEW WINE ALERT!) - 46% Sangiovese, 46% Zinfandel, 8% Estate Primitivo

2022 Conduit “Gold Dust Vineyard” Estate Syrah - 100% Syrah, fermented 80% whole cluster. Beautifully focused and lighter on its feet compared to the 2021

2022 divergent vine “Gold Dust Vineyard” Estate Primitivo - wild berries, elevated fruit, structured bright acidity,

Vertical Tasting (previous year wines)

2021 Conduit “Gold Dust Vineyard” Estate Syrah - 70% Syrah, 30% Viognier co-fermented “Côte Rôtie” style, 100% whole cluster fermented. Complex, savory, and drinking beautifully.

2021 divergent vine “Gold Dust Vineyard” Estate Primitivo - rustic, dark chocolate, berry pie, structured yet zippy finish

Featured Library Wines

2019 divergent vine “Shake Ridge Ranch” Zinfandel - grown in high elevation, this alpine Zinfandel has aged beautifully and is starting to show its lovely secondary fruit characteristics as well as bright, fresh acidity.

2014 Conduit Sonoma County Cab Franc/Merlot blend - this is a wine I knew I would be drinking for years (if not decades) to come. Only 43 cases produced of this special “Left Bank Bordeaux” inspired red blend. I aged this wine for three years in barrel and an additional 2 years in bottle prior to releasing in 2019. Now, at a full nine years of age, this special and personal pet-project wine continues to impress me as it improve with time.

Aaron’s Notes on the 2023 Harvest and Vintage

The growing season in 2023 was marked by a late start as the 2022-2023 winter (and mountain snows) continued through March.  All of the winter snows and rains set up the water table such that we were able to dry farm the entire vineyard.  Bud break, when the vines wake up from their winter slumber, happened in late April, a full 3-4 weeks behind previous years.  Thankfully, the rain and hail stayed away this year during bloom phase allowing the fruit to set beautifully by June.

The weather stayed seasonally cool (although it was plenty warm to get lots of lake and river time in) throughout the summer, allowing for slow and even development of the fruit. After the extreme heat and other external challenges of the past few vintages, to say this weather was welcomed would be an understatement.

As usual, August was the hottest month of the year, but the weather never quite reached the 100-degree mark, which usually has us scrambling around to pull fruit off the vine as quickly as possible.  Rather, this year, we got several evening summer rains, which cooled the weather down significantly and reminded Amy of summers growing up on the east coast.  Thankfully the humidity stayed down enough that rot didn’t set in on the fruit, but it did set the fruit back several days as rains will dilute the sugars/acids in the grapes and require extra time for the clusters to reset.

Finally, on September 11th our Gold Dust Vineyard Primitivo was the first fruit off the vine, followed three days later by our Viognier and Tempranillo.. The Syrah was the last to come off just a week ago (9/20), so all of our estate fruit is off the vine and tastes spectacular as it ferments away in the cellar.  I can now focus on the fermentation management and pressing off the young wine into barrels once fermentation is complete.  We still have the Fair Play Grenache and Zinfandel yet to pick as the vineyard we source these from is about 400’ lower elevation and we are typically waiting 2-3 weeks after pick our vineyard off for this fruit to mature.  All in all, 2023 looks like it’s shaping up to be a very good vintage and I can’t wait to share these wines with you next year!

Wine Focus: “A Touch of Gray Rock”

As we enter the fall, we wanted to share a brand new El Dorado County red wine blend we released for the first time this year.  A Touch of Gray Rock is comprised of 46% Sangiovese (the Queen of Tuscany…think Chianti), 46% Zinfandel, and 8% Estate Primitivo,.  The Sangiovese and Zinfandel come from an organic vineyard and orchard in the Apple Hill/Camino area, just 35 minutes away.  Grown in the volcanic soils of this region, the Sangiovese brings brite red fruit notes of cherry and strawberry laced in dried roses, while the Zinfandel adds beautiful purple notes of wild berries and bright Santa Rosa plum.  We added just a “touch” of our granite soil grown Estate Primitivo to give this wine a little more depth of character as well as ever-so-slight tannin structure, which make this latest release a great casual sipper, that also holds up to a variety of foods from red or white meats to fall salads. We are super stoked about this new release and think you will be to.  A Touch of Gray Rock is available to taste now at our tasting room or can be ordered here from our online store. Salute!

Our Top 5 El Dorado County Fall Activities

Fall has arrived here at the Gold Dust Vineyard and harvest season is in full swing.  Aaron has been tirelessly working on the 2023 vintage, which he says is shaping up to be potentially the best vintage we’ve had since we moved to the property three years ago.  (See his harvest and vintage notes below)

As the vines are finishing up their work for the year, the leaves are starting to change color and the hot summer weather has given way to warm, sunny days and cool evenings.  It’s perfect camping weather and is also one of our favorite times of year around El Dorado County, with so much to do as the many local crops are reaching peak ripeness.

With the new season in full swing, we wanted to share five of our favorite local Fall activities with you as well as a little note to make your camping reservations soon as our vineyard campsites are quickly filling up for the remainder of September through October.

1. Apple Season in Apple Hill – you-pick farms, kids activities and all kinds of apples and apple goodies (pies, tarts, vinegar, etc.)

2. Pumpkin Patches – great for all ages! Choose your fall pumpkins, take on the corn maze or go for a hayride.

3. Fresh, made-to-order Apple Cider doughnuts (Rainbow Orchard) – only seasonally available, we look forward to these warm, fresh doughnuts every year

4. Visit the Alpacas – there are several Alpaca farms in Fair Play, this is our favorite

5. Boat, fish or hike to a waterfall in Sly Park – a beautiful lakeside recreational area with a hiking trail to a waterfall.

And don’t forget to end your day with a Conduit tasting experience and the amazing ridge line views overlooking the Sierra Foothills from our outside tasting area and crush pad.

We hope to see you at Camp Conduit this Fall!

Primitivo From the Ashes

We were on our annual pre-harvest camping trip, one that we took every year before the two-month insanity of pre-dawn mornings and late nights in the cellar started all over again.  It was Saturday, August 14th of 2021, 13 months after Amy and I “pushed all in” to buy our little vineyard and winery in the mountains.  That summer there had been a few wildfires in the Eastern Sierras, not far from the Nevada border, but a relatively safe distance from our home in Fair Play, situated in Southern El Dorado County. 

That Saturday night, as we were preparing for bed and about to step in our tent, we looked up through the pine trees and saw three fire scout planes flying overhead. Not uncommon given the time of year and the fires to the east, but we briefly through that it was a little strange to see them flying north from where we were camping.  When we woke up the following morning, we were a bit surprised to see the canyon we were in drenched in the all-to-familiar hazy smoke of wildfire.  At first, we didn’t think too much of it as the winds usually come from the East at night in the Sierras but didn’t know for sure as we were out of cellular service. We got up and made our coffee and breakfast and headed down to the river for one last cool morning dip before heading back home.

As we played and splashed in the river with Cameron, the smokey fog began to thicken in the narrow canyon. Amy and I agreed that it was probably time to cut our river play short and get out of the canyon, just in case there was something else going on that we weren’t aware of.  When we got back to our camp and were just finishing up a ranger pulled up in his well-worn Nissan pick-up truck to inform us that a small fire had started overnight near Omo Ranch, about 6 miles West down the canyon from where we were camping and equidistance (in the other direction) from our home and winery. That was how we learned about what would become known as the Caldor Fire, a fire that would, over the course of the next few weeks ravage California’s northern Sierra mountains to the tune of 221,000 acres, an area roughly the size of San Diego.

We quickly packed up the last of our things and headed home, right into the direction of Omo Ranch and the heart of the fledgling wildfire. About 30 minutes later, as we trepidly approached Omo Ranch, we were surprised to see the parking lot of the small local school, Indian Diggins, which houses about 30 total students from K – 12th grade, filled with CalFire vehicles and firefighters, seemingly sitting around, as if they were preparing for training drills with little urgency.  The politics of wildfires is an interesting (and frequently frustrating) topic, which I won’t get into here, but with the Caldor Fire starting on Federal land in the El Dorado National Forrest, there was essentially nothing the CalFire firefighters could do at that point, but prepare for a fire that might eventually burn past invisible political jurisdictions. And that, it most certainly did.

With the U.S. Forest Service taking its usual wildfire position of “Let It Burn,” the Caldor fire quickly spread north up the canyon of the middle fork of the Consumnes river and within 48 hours it had burned through the town of Grizzly Flats, one which we had visited as a family for the first time just 10 days earlier.

When we arrived back home on Sunday, August 15th, we unpacked our camping supplies only to start getting together our emergency “Go-Pack” as a precautionary measure in case we needed to evacuate.  That night as we lay in bed, searching for information about the fire, we could see the red-orange glow of the building inferno and plumes of smoke rising to the east from our bedroom window. Early the next morning, with the fire dangerously close, but seemingly heading away from our direction, I woke up and prepared for our first pick of the year, which I had pre-scheduled with our picking crew for Tuesday, August 17th. Our Gold Dust Vineyard Estate Primitivo was approaching perfectly balanced numbers for picking and ripening grapes don’t tend to yield, even to approaching wildfires.  As we went to bed that Monday night, with the orange glow of the wildfire that had already taken out Grizzley Flats looming closely in the distance and slowly starting to move west towards us from Omo Ranch, our anxiety began to peak and at some point in the evening, Amy decided that she was going to preemptively evacuate with Cameron the following morning.

As the picking crew was bringing in the very first grapes of our 2021 harvest, only the second vintage from the property we purchased just a year prior, Amy loaded up Cameron to escape to a hotel just east of Sacramento. I, along with friend Jeff, whom I have known since the first day of 2nd grade, prepared to process the 2.5 tons of Primitivo that had just been dropped in five bins on the crushpad.  Jeff and I worked diligently that day, hoping that the power would stay on long enough to finish our work.  As we had just finished cleaning the last of the equipment around 6PM that evening, the power went out and withing a few moments we both received mandatory evacuation alerts on our phone.  We had to leave and soon.

You often hear people talk about the things they would grab if a fire was raging through their house, but up until this point in my life, I had never experienced the real anxiety the thought process where you are forced to assume that your life’s work is about to be completely destroyed and now you have to leave all that behind and pack the things you need the most into a mid-sized SUV.   As I went through the winery, packing essential items like camping gear, headlamps, batteries, water, etc., rapidly snapping all the pictures I could take on my phone for insurance purposes. I finally grabbed a few of my favorite paintings my grandmother had made before she passed away as well as three paintings that my good friend Jared had done for some wine labels and as a wedding present for Amy and me.  Lastly, I packed a few cases of our wine, a case of Syrah I had made from Cameron’s birth year, a case of our 2014 Red Wine blend, and a case of mixed bottles from the previous year, our first vintage on our brand new property that was now directly in harms way.  As I was rolling down the winery door that day, I remember pausing for a moment to take one final look and the place that Amy and I had worked so hard  for, a place where we had dreams of raising our son, teaching him our chosen trade, while fostering a respect for the important things in life, like the value of hard work, respect for the land and the living creatures we share it with; knowing that all of those things might shortly be a dream from the past. As I did that, I caught a glance at the fermentation bins from the Primitivo that we had just picked a process a few hours earlier. It seemed like a lifetime ago. In a day or two they would start spontaneously fermenting with the native yeast from our vineyard, the way wine has been made for thousands of years of this planet. The work necessary to turn those grapes into wine had been done and now it was time to trust the natural process, a process that gave no thought or care to the approaching wildfire because even admits the chaos and destruction, life continues on. In that dire moment, filled with fear and sadness, there was something that was strangely comforting to me in that thought.  I didn’t know if we would have a home to come back to and I certainly thought that the 2021 harvest was over just as quickly as it began.

We evacuated as a family to a cabin in Arnold, about an hour and 45 minute drive from the winery. Over the next few days, the Caldor fire started moving closer and closer to our property. CalFire crews were digging fire lines about 1,000 feet down the road and sheriffs set up road blocks, cutting off access to our winery, where the Primitivo was slowly starting fermentation in our dark, abandoned cellar. Once a ferment kicks off, it needs to be tended to, the grape must punched down daily in order to keep the grow and maintain a healthy ferment and prevent off flavors and flaws from creeping into the young wine. Knowing that if our facility were to avoid disaster from the fire, that fermenting Primitivo might be the only wine we get from the ’21 vintage and it also needed protecting.  I started making daily trips from Arnold back to our winery, avoiding the sheriff road blocks by driving up a rough dirt road that leads through our property, and finally parking under a set of pine trees on our raw land to avoid detection by the ever-circling helicopters. I “sneak” into our own property via an alternative entrance gate next to the Primitivo block and then into the winery where I would spend 30 minutes in cellar punching down the active ferments by the light of my cell phone. The beautiful aromas of a healthy ferment rising in the darkness as I worked in silence gave me comfort and for those brief moments, alone each day, I lost the feeling of a being a helpless person waiting for disaster to and I became a winemaker again. Every day for a week, I locked up the winery and trudged a half mile through the vineyard and pine trees to get back to my hidden car, not knowing if the building would be there for me to return to the next day.

On the night of Wednesday, August 25th after CalFire had dug eight rows of lines about a quarter of a mile east of our facility, they back lit the earth and brush, starting a fire that would meet the oncoming Caldor fire and eventually steered it north, down the canyon where airtanker planes had been dropping fire retardant for the previous few days, a move that saved our property from disaster. Five days later, with the power finally restored, we were able to return to the winery and resume the rest of the 2021 harvest with grateful hearts and a renewed sense of motivation.

Last week, as I worked into the evening, alone on the crushpad, bringing that very same Primitivo to its final resting place in bottle, a light rain began to fall.  I couldn’t help by think about how oddly fitting it was that a wine born in the flames of the Caldor was finishing its long journey home in the damp, cold air of those same Sierra Foothills.  It reminded me that life is delicate, unpredictable, and cyclical, but it is also perseverant and once again, I was grateful to just feel like a winemaker.

Memories of Wines Perfect for the Holidays

Tempranillo and Time - by Amy

I first fell in love with wine while drinking Spanish Riojas.  It was the early 2000s in Chicago where tapas was all the rage and in addition to drinking Sangria, I often sought out a wine from the Spanish region of Rioja, made with the Tempranillo grape.  I felt so fancy pairing this classic medium bodied, high acid wine with my overpriced nibbles.   This was my wine a-ha moment.  I loved the silky tannins, the notes of black cherry, strawberry jam, cedar, fig, chocolate, baking spices, dill and a hint of fresh leather jacket.  But I also loved the oak!  Oh, the oak. (Don't judge!)  Traditional Spanish Riojas are aged in American Oak barrels that impart more of that vanilla and strangely enough, an oddly enticing dill aroma (referred to as a marker, meaning if you smell dill in wine, chances are it is aged in American Oak!)  The wine from this grape held up nicely with sausages, grilled shrimp, patas bravas, and goat cheese-stuffed figs…oh, and don't forget the paella! An interesting side note to this story, Tempranillo gets its name from the Spanish word “temprano” meaning “early” as it’s usually the first grape picked in Rioja, ironically, its the also one of the first grapes I picked along my wine journey.

We only made about 60 cases of this wine in 2020 as our neighborhood bear family ATE about half the harvest before the grapes were ripe enough to be picked!

With the fruit we did get into the cellar, Aaron gave a familiar nod to the Tempranillos of my youth, aging our estate wine in one neutral American Oak barrel and two old French Oak barrels for 18 months, as this wine just needs time to fully mature and integrate its classic flavors and structure. Our very first “Gold Dust Vineyard” Estate Tempranillo starts off with savory aromas of dried figs and tomato leaf, but don’t stop there. As you get into this wine you’ll be surprised how such savory aromas give way to luscious notes of cherries and strawberry compote before finishing off with significant freshness and mouth drying tannin. The duality of this wine is what I love about it the most. Its savory, yet fruity. You experience mouth-watering acidity and mouth-drying tannins at the same time. This Tempranillo takes me on a journey to my early days learning about wines, and at the same time, keeps me present, as I now discover and learn about the wines from our own special vineyard.

This Holiday Season, join me as I enjoy our 2020 divergent vine, “Gold Dust Vineyard” Tempranillo with friends and family at the Holiday table. This wine pairs great with winter stews, Steaks (Prime Rib!) and other game, as well as all the dishes I mentioned above. - Cheers, Amy